Tuesday, June 11, 2019

Literary Travels, Part III

On my recent European trip, the grandest surprise had to be Belgium.  I'd heard from multiple people that Belgium was a beautiful, amazing country, and yet, I'm ashamed to say, before this trip, I would never had said that Belgium was on my bucket list.

I can now say that returning to Belgium is near the top of that list.

First: The Food.  And if you know me at all, you could have guessed that this element would be first.  I love food.  I love exploring culturally and ethnically diverse foods, gawking at beautiful foods, cherishing fresh foods, and, in general, eating.  My first meal in Belgium consisted of hot chocolate, croquettes, and frites.  This may not seems like an overly exciting meal, but, by golly, it was my favorite meal of the trip.  The hot chocolate was delivered in pieces; by that I mean that the warm milk arrived in a clear, insulated cup and was accompanied by a ramekin of dark chocolate chips, a ramekin of whipped cream, and a spoon.  I poured the chips in and watched them melt, swirling about the milk until it was a creamy brown.  I dolloped the fresh whipped cream on top and then stirred, thickening my drink.  And then I tasted the greatest hot chocolate of my life.  It was a hot day and I was outside--no worries.  I savored every sip.

The croquettes were cheese (real, European cheese), perfectly crispy, and served with a sweet and tangy, semi-creamy dip that I could have eaten with a spoon.  And the frites--OH, the frites!

That evening I enjoyed a freshly made waffle slathered with nutella and chopped bananas at a "Waffleteria" (that's real, y'all!), true Belgian chocolates, and Belgian beef stew.  And for breakfast I went downstairs in the hotel to find a cheese station, a meat station, a bread station, a fruit station, and--best of all--an orange juice machine that squeezed the oranges before my eyes!  I'll tell you this, Europe does breakfast right!

The Literature: Before you read on, I suggest you read the poem "In Flanders Fields" by John McCrae.  For it was in Belgium that we visited these fields.  We first went through a museum that included a recreation of both trenches and dugouts.  Then we took a stroll along a path cutting through the fields where bloody warfare took place during World War I.  It was a beautiful day.  Butterflies cut across the path, tractors plowed fields now producing livelihood, and homes with swing sets in the backyard stood just across the grass that spread from either side of us.  It was a solemn walk, and I was struck by the beauty of this place in contrast to the images we had seen in the museum.  It's difficult to make that walk, to see the remnants of dugout entrances and solidified bags still standing at the sites of trenches, and not feel that war must be ended everywhere.  We ended at Tyne Cot Cemetery where rows of white markers were dotted with red poppies.

That evening, in Ypres, we attended the Last Post Ceremony at the Menin Gate.  This ceremony began in 1928, and has been taking place every night since (with exception during the second world war).  Words cannot describe the solemnity of this occasion.  It was certainly one of the most meaningful experiences of my life.

Bruges: Finally, visiting Bruges for a lunch break was a highlight of my time in Belgium.  This beautiful, medieval city is a place to which I will certainly return.  The city is surrounded by a wall and is sometimes referred to as the "Venice of the North" because of its many canals.  The highlights for me were the Church of our Lady, where we saw an authentic Michelangelo, The Basilica of the Holy Blood, which contains the relic of the Holy Blood, and the Markt with its beautifully painted buildings and impressive belfry.  I enjoyed stolling the streets, looking at the windows which housed intricate miniatures, Christmas decorations, and needlepoint pillows and handkerchiefs.  It was on this stroll that I consumed a "Waffle on a Stick" because--obviously!  But the best part of our visit was sitting with my friends, eating frites at a table in the Markt.  This is a city I want to return to and dwell in.  The medieval architecture still intact, the sights of Bruges are unlike anywhere I have been.

Belgium--you were more than I could have expected.

https://poets.org/poem/flanders-fields
http://www.greatwar.co.uk/events/menin-gate-last-post-ceremony.htm

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